A folding knife has to be wiped, never washed
- horn tip, horn, stag horn and ivory handles
Those are natural materials. Avoid wetting the horn handle :
it could end up splitted.
Horn is composed of keratin
like feathers and nails. That is why it offers a great
variety ok colours and that this material requires minimum
- French or exotic wood handles
withstand cold water. Anyway, they still have to be
considered as fragile materials.
Woods : If your knife
handle becomes dry or/and dull, apply olive oil with a soft
cloth on it.
- Aluminium, stainless steel and
Those materials are very solid and thus
recommended for people with an untidy character or which
hobby is fishing. The aluminium, stainless steel and acrylic
handles resist to water as well as to being wet.
case, they have to be wiped after use. The mechanism needs
to be cared of.
We advise against dish-washing folding
Ivory, Horn, Bone and Antler
- Carbon steel blade
the traditional blade which becomes grey with use. This is a
natural oxidation which can evolve into rust in case of lack
It has to be cleaned with a wet cloth and
immediately dry it (in the old days the peasants did not
wash their knife blade but wiped it on their work trousers).
Avoid using scotch Brite, it scratches the blade.
render the blade the colour it had when you purchased it you
can use products you find in hardware shops. Otherwise, you
can dip a cork in cold wood ashes and wipe the blade with
elbow grease... Then the blade will be clean again until the
next acid food you cut !
- Stainless steel blade
(reference number 12C27)
Contrary to the traditional
blade which blackens, stainless steel blades remains clean
whatever use you make of them. 12C27 stainless steel is an
up-market steel. It is easy to grind wherever by
professionals or by private individuals.
After use wash
the blade with a wet cloth and wipe it. Avoid using scotch
Brite, it scratches the blade.
- Damascus blade
case of regular use, wash it after every use to keep its
moiré look. If you do not use your knife for a long time,
grease your blade to avoid any deterioration in its beauty.
A neutral grease such as the silicon grease used in plumbing
Damascus blades care is identical to the
other blade's. In order to clean it, wash the blade with a
wet cloth and wipe it. Avoid using scotch Brite, it
scratches the blade.
There are 2 different operations :
- honing to restore
- grinding to maintain the edge
During both operation you need to keep a 20-30° angle (a
blade must not be scratched!)
Press hard and regularly
(to make swift moves does not improve the quality of the
sharpening it only increases the risks to cut oneself or
scratch the blade,...!)
Those operations can be made in a
few minutes but need some exercise. Before you sharpening
your brand new Laguiole knife, try to practice with an old
The honing is made on a whetstone
or an electric grindstone (to be perfectly round).
use, the whetstone has to be drowned in water for about ten
minutes. A coarse-grained stone is used for gardening tools
and a medium-grained stone for knives.
movement as if you wished to cut a slice out of the stone
(keeping the same angle). Do this movement again alternating
one size of the blade with the other. Wet the stone
regularly during the grinding.
stone on a workbench using two clamps will free both hands
and make the honing easier (contrary to what is shown on the
The grinding is made
with a magnetized steel with a 25cm long bit and a hilt.
Whether it is round, oval or flat, to will do the same
the movement is identical to the one
with the whetstone. Going from the top of the bit with the
bottom of the knife's blade do as if you wished to cut the
steel towards the hilt. Do this movement again alternating
one size of the blade with the other.
necessary to oil regularly the moving parts of any folding
knife as much as it is for a car engine. It will prevent it
from a premature wear.
You can use a multi-use oil or
a WD 40 oil. The blade folded, put a oil drop between the
blade and the string at the blade axle. Open and close the
blade, then wipe surplus oil.
- massive brass bolsters
To leave a Laguiole
knife in a leather sheath for an extended period of time
without using the knife will oxide brass bolsters. It is
simply due to the chemical agents used in the tanning
To give the oxidized brass bolsters their
original shine, wet a mop with some ouator or Mirror and
elbow grease will do the rest!
- stainless steel
No care is needed for knives with stainless
- for any knife
Avoid having your
knife in your pocket along with other metallic objects such
as keys, coins... It might scratch the handle and the
metallic parts of your knife
Laguiole folding knives
Like any othjer knife a Laguiole folding
knife is made TO CUT.
A knife is not a tool made for
- being used as a lever
- being used
as an oyster-knife
- being used as an awl
or a punch
- being used as a throwing knife
click the blade shut without damaging its cutting edge ?
The Laguiole knife has got a slip-joint (it means the blade
is half-blocked.) When you fold the blade, on its course the
string works to lead and maintain the blade into the handle.
In former days in farms, the granddad used to click the
blade to mean the meal was over.
Nowadays modern cutlery
allows to have one's knife clicking without spoiling its
sharp edge. On some of our models of knives of the Prestige
range or Collection range the springs have got a blade stop.
The blade bottom shuts on a stop under the bee (it acts like
a brake.) the cutting edge is entirely protected!
3 pieces knife (with the blade, the corkscrew and the
punch), the blade must always be accompanied.
A few remarks about Laguiole table cutlery
All table cutlery items have stainless steel blades and
Stainless steel blades remain shiny whatever
use you have.
We advise you to hand-wash your table
knives in order to keep the edge cutting for a long time :
- we recommend to wash the blade of your knives with a wet
cloth and to mop it afterwards after each use if possible.
- avoid any abrasive such as powders, scrubbing cloth..., it
will scratch to blade.
For dish-washers, a few
precautions have to be taken :
- avoid using too much
- do not wash with other ordinary items at the same
time in your dish-washer (marmalade jar top...,)
sure there is enough rinsing product.
stainless-steel and acrylic handles only can resist to
chemicals and high washing-machines temperatures.
In case of persistent stains on your knife blades, we
recommend the use of specific products on a cloth (a few
examples : Ouator, Hagerty Inox,...). Do not forget to rinse
and wipe the cutlery after washing it.
Beware : only
a few types of handles can resist to dish-washers or can be
dipped in water. See the Authenticity Certificate to know if
the handles can go into the dish-washer.
Ivory, Horn, Bone and Antler
Ivory, bone, horn, and antler have been used to craft objects that run the gamut
from everyday household items to intricate jewelry, carvings, and statues. The
detailed scrimshaw done by 18th-century sailors is just one of many beautiful
examples. With proper care these objects can last and be enjoyed for many years.
Ivory is a specialized form of tooth. The most common source is elephant tusk
although other mammalian tusks (e.g. walrus, sperm whale tooth, and narwhal)
have been used. A synthetic "ivory" was produced from cellulose nitrate in the
late 1800s and early 1900s. Called "French" or "India" ivory, it resembles the
real thing but its structure breaks down over time.
Bone looks similar to ivory but it is lighter in weight and usually not as
white. A polished bone surface usually has small pits and what appears to be a
lightly scratched surface; these are the exposed "tunnels" that permeate the
Antler is a specialized form of bone that often has a rough textured surface.
Horn is made up of the same material found in fingernails or hooves.
Causes of Damage
Contact with the natural oils of skin or exposure to coloured materials can
result in staining or darkening of ivory and bone. Over time, exposure to the
environment can also produce some darkening in ivory which can be considered a
Exposure to light can bleach ivory.
Insects can damage horn.
Extreme or rapid fluctuations in temperature and humidity cause small changes in
dimensions of ivory, horn, bone, and antler, which can lead to cracking.
Liquids such as cleaning solution or even water can also cause damage.
Ensure that your hands are clean and dry before handling ivory, bone, horn, and
Safeguard items from extreme or rapid changes in temperature or humidity; a
display case will provide some protection against environmental fluctuations,
dirt, and dust. Do not display ivory, bone, horn, and antler in direct sunlight,
under bright lights, near heat or air-conditioning units, or near windows and
When storing items, wrap them in unbuffered, acid-free tissue paper or
unbleached muslin and then place them in a sealed polyethylene bag (e.g. Ziploc
Do not use rubber-based materials (which can cause yellowing) to cushion items
made of ivory.
A light dusting with a soft brush is often all that is needed to clean ivory,
bone, horn, and antler objects. Ivory and horn that are in good condition (i.e.
with a smooth, glossy surface) and have no applied decoration can be cleaned
with a little water. Use a cotton swab (e.g. Q-tip), barely dampened, and dry
the object immediately with another cotton swab or soft tissue. Do not attempt
to clean porous bone or antler this way without first consulting a conservator.
Do not use water on any object that is cracked or otherwise damaged. Never soak
The cleaning and repair of ivory, bone, horn, and antler is a delicate
procedure. If an object is very dirty or damaged, consult a professional